Crab cakes often include filler ingredients to bind the meat, creating crispy patties that don't fall apart. Here's why ...

Crab is a finicky meat, whether you are working with fresh meat or canned (which, by the way, you should always keep on hand in your pantry so you can whip up a delicious crab cake in a pinch).

(If you prefer, you can steam the crab over simmering water for 20 minutes.) When cool enough to handle, pull off the back shell and place it cavity side-up on a dish.

Add shallots and cook briefly until wilted. Add crab meat and cook briefly, stirring gently. Sprinkle with remaining sherry. 4. Spoon crab meat into a baking dish and smooth over with a spatula.

Whether it's steamed, cracked and served gloriously unadorned, or prepared according to one of today's recipes, crab's pure, sweet flavor should be center stage, with the wine a supporting player.